Ohio Winemakers Reveal the Craft Behind Your Favorite Bottle

Winemaking is a delicate blend of art and science, involving dozens of decisions before a bottle is ready to be poured. What does it take to transform grapes on the vine into the wine in your glass? The winemaking process — harvesting grapes, crushing and pressing them for juice, fermenting, and aging — follows well-known steps. In Ohio, however, this journey is fraught with its own set of unique challenges, including unpredictable weather, soil conditions, and the threat of disease pressure on the grapes.

Ohio is home to five — and hopefully soon to be six — viticultural appellations, designated and regulated geographic areas that specify the origin of a wine’s grapes. The Lake Erie appellation enjoys the lake’s moderating influence, which allows the vineyards there to cultivate cool-climate varieties such as Riesling, Chardonnay, French-American hybrid, and native grapes. The Grand River Valley, covering portions of Ashtabula, Lake, and Geauga counties, is known for good soils, allowing its wineries to perfect vinifera wines such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

Isle St. George is found on North Bass Island, where more than half of the island was previously planted with grapevines. The shallow Lake Erie is warmer than the other Great Lakes, providing a warming effect on the local climate and crops. The Ohio River Valley, in southern Ohio, is one of the oldest wine-growing regions in the country and the second-largest wine appellation of origin in the U.S. The final appellation is Loramie Creek in Shelby County. 

To better understand the challenges and opportunities of winemaking here, we spoke with some of Ohio’s leading vintners. They shared insights into the intricate process of planting and harvesting grapes, and then crafting wine — highlighting both the challenges they face and the rewarding moments that make it worthwhile.

“An outsider may only be able to imagine about a quarter of the work that goes into that bottle of wine,” says Lee Klingshirn, winemaker at Klingshirn Winery, a third-generation winery in Avon Lake.

Left: An employee drives a tractor along the vineyard at Avon Lake’s Klingshirn Winery. (photo courtesy of Klingshirn Winery) Right: Grapes await processing at Urbana’s Dragonfly Vineyard & Wine Cellar. (photo courtesy of Dragonfly Vineyard & Wine Cellar)

It Starts with the Grapes 

The process begins with growing the grapes — or perhaps sourcing them, as some grape varieties do better outside the Buckeye State. The choices are based in part on what can grow in the vineyard and which grapes are suited for the style the winemaker wants to pursue.

While vinifera varieties such as Chardonnay and Riesling can be successful here, Ohio’s wineries also grow hybrids, such as Seyval Blanc and Chambourcin, and cold-hardy varieties, such as Marquette La Crescent, Frontenac, and Petite Pearl, which are more suited to the state’s finicky weather. It takes three to five years for new vines to bear consistent fruit, vintners say. 

“We bring in grapes like Merlot because we just like these wines,” says Connie Eichenauer, who with her husband, Kent, owns Dragonfly Vineyard & Wine Cellar in Urbana. The winery produces most of its wine though using the grapes it grows on its four-acre vineyard. “You have to have grape varieties that can do well in Ohio’s temperatures, and you want to make sure you like the wine they make.” 

Finicky Climate

Then, there’s the unpredictable Ohio climate, which can vary widely in a short period of time. Suddenly changeable weather can cause grapes to ripen unevenly. Late frosts in the spring can kill shoots while the buds are typically still enclosed and protected from the spring freeze. Fall rains are problematic during harvest for disrupting schedules and causing disease issues rather than cold temperatures. Northeast Ohio has the added issue of late-ripening fruit and harvesting prior to the first fall freeze.

“The most important thing to consider when picking varietals of grapes to grow is the climate,” says Sandy Marsh, owner of Ugly Bunny Winery in Loudonville, which makes several varieties of wine with grapes grown on the property. “We determine the right time to pick grapes based on ripeness, taste, feel, and Brix (sugar content). Ohio’s rainfall and overall weather are also deciding factors on when we pick.”

Keeping the Vines Safe

Winemakers must remain vigilant throughout the growing season to protect grapes from various threats. Regular vineyard scouting is essential to prevent unexpected infestations and diseases. Common concerns include fungal infections such as black rot, downy mildew, powdery mildew, and Phomopsis, which require consistent, preventive measures.

Early in the season, the grape flea beetle poses a risk by feeding on tender, swelling buds. As the vines continue to develop, additional challenges arise from invasive species such as Japanese beetles and the spotted lanternfly, both of which can cause significant damage  if left unchecked.

“If we did nothing, the [Japanese] beetles could eat up our whole vineyard in a week,” says Kent Eichenauer of Dragonfly Vineyard. “Our spray program does a good job of keeping everything healthy.”

Conneaut’s Buccia Vineyards offers sweeping rural views. (photo by Brandi Papania Photography)

Harvesting the Grapes

Once those hurdles are overcome, it’s time to make wine. The harvesting process begins with carefully monitoring grape maturity based on sugar-to-acid ratio, pH levels, and taste. Each grape variety has an optimal point for these attributes, and selecting varieties that reach these characteristics before the growing season ends is crucial for quality wine production.

“Generally, we pick about the same time each year within a week or so,” says Laura Rufenacht, co-owner of Majestic Oak Winery in Grand Rapids, which hopes to soon add a cidery and restaurant on its property. “We test the sugar content to determine the best time to pick.”

However, grapes may sometimes be harvested before reaching full maturity if disease or insect damage has significantly affected the foliage. This approach ensures that the grapes remain usable before further deterioration occurs.

“Climate has everything to do with obtaining optimal parameters and then determination of the best time to pick,” says Klingshirn, who has a degree in viticulture and enology.

Many small wineries, such as Buccia Vineyards in Conneaut, harvest grapes by hand — removing entire clusters from the vine and transporting them to the crush pad for processing. Buccia specializes in cool-climate grapes with its location near Lake Erie and Conneaut Creek, which also attracts visitors to its four bed-and-breakfast suites.

“Depending on the grape variety and desired wine style, the fruit may be crushed and destemmed, then pressed into juice immediately after crushing,” says Buccia owner and winemaker Bill Holden. “For red wines, rosés, or whites where skin contact is desired, pressing is delayed until the color, tannins, and other factors are where the winemaker wants them.” Red varieties are further fermented on the skins to extract the anthocyanins (color pigment) from the skins providing their deep ruby-red color until fermentation is complete. 

Friends enjoy wood-fired pizza and wine at Bidwell’s Merry Family Winery. (photo by Megan Leigh Barnard)

The Final Reward

After all the grower’s efforts in the vineyards, crushing, pressing, fermenting, aging, blending, and filtering, it finally comes time to bottle the finished product.

“Bottling our wine isn’t just the final step — it’s the moment we get to seal in all the time, patience, and love we’ve poured into it, ready to share with others who appreciate it as much as we do,” says Gabryella Tucker, the new co-owner with Ashlee McElwain of Merry Family Winery in Bidwell.

Ohio Wine is Big Business

Ohio’s vineyard owners generate big business for the Buckeye State. The state ranks seventh in the country in wine production, says the Ohio Grape Industries Committee. The 428 licensed wine manufacturers here produce more than 1.2 million gallons of wine and contribute $6.6 billion annually in economic activity. They created more than 40,000 jobs and generated nearly $2 billion in wages in 2022. So, the next time you sip a great Ohio wine, you’re helping to boost our state’s economy.

“The wine industry is global, but also an intensely local industry,” says Mike Veseth, editor of The Wine Economist. “When you put it all together, the economic impact is surprisingly large and a lot of fun.”

Sip Magazine is for Ohio wine lovers and is produced by Great Lakes Studios in partnership with the Ohio Grape Industries Committee. View a digital version of Sip Magazine 2025 here.