Backstory: Dining Out in the Country

This is a story that ran in our March 1982 issue. Small updates to align with AP style and to correct errors in the original story have been made to this version of the article.

The Oaks Lodge

As the car winds along Medina County Road No. 19, passing an occasional house but no other cars, one speculates that The Oaks Lodge must be something special. How else could a restaurateur entice patrons out here, miles away from any sign of civilization. 

Just when you’re sure you’ve missed the turnoff, a large sign points you in the right direction to a drive that ends at a rather ordinary-looking house. Optimism may falter, but any misgivings should be only momentary. Rest assured The Oaks Lodge is no ordinary spot. 

The house was originally part of the Robb family farm. J.F. Townsend, a railroad man who had vacationed in the Chippewa Lake area, bought the farm, as well as the much of the acreage overlooking the scenic Chippewa Lake in the late 1800s. Townsend named the estate Five Oaks, after the large trees that stood by the lakeside entrance, and with the additions of a barn, carriage house, formal gardens and even a pheasant run, he turned it into a Medina County showplace. Celebrated industrialists were often the guests of Townsend, who quickly gained the reputation of a gracious and generous host. 

Townsend died not long after the completion of Five Oaks in 1914, and frequent changes of ownership followed. Then in 1961, Don Casper and Al Hitchens undertook the task of reviving The Townsend tradition of hospitality and warmth. 

The comforts and the quirks of Five Oaks remain a part of The Oaks Lodge. In the middle hall that patrons pass through enroute to the dining rooms, a staircase ascending to upper quarters strikes a note of authenticity, if not practically. In one of the dining rooms, potential table space is relinquished to the cozy setting of a leather couch and side chair set before a crackling fire.

Two other dining rooms are individually, and each has its distinct charm. The smallest of the three, perhaps once a study for Townsend, is a personal favorite: A half-dozen tables set against calico print walls and dark wood, a stone fireplace in one corner, flickering candlelight and formally folded napkins standing at attention. In the largest dining room a glass expanse affords a view of the grounds, the name-inspiring trees, a gazebo and Chippewa Lake. In any season, it is a mural of nature.

Despite the country setting, the kitchen is city-side. The menu is as varied as the decor, with an emphasis on continental preparations.

While you study the menu, you can sip a drink and nibble on complimentary cheddar cheese served in an earthenware crock.

The most intriguing item among the appetizers is the hot hors d’oeuvres tray, which holds a collection of chicken fingers, zucchini spears, French-fried mushrooms and sauerkraut balls. 

The more than twenty entrees-- steaks, scampis, prime rib and other favorites-- are all ably prepared. The juicy rack of lamb, cooked to perfection and carved table side rates high marks, as does a nightly special, a salmon filet with Béarnaise sauce and roast duckling. 

Dinners come with a fresh garden salad, served on chilled pewter plates and topped with the house dressing, a tangy, creamy herbed variety. The twice baked potato is another trademark. Though very good, it is offered in a small ramekin instead of its natural skin. Fresh crisp-cooked vegetables are available á la carte.

To accompany the meal, the wine list includes both imported and domestic vintages, many available in the half-bottle for those with lesser thirsts.

Desserts are a proud point here: Black bottomed pie with dark chocolate crust and rum-laced ice cream, cheesecakes, mousses and parfaits.

Three years ago, the Oaks’ owners expanded the Lodge by building a new bar, rich in old wood, and a two-tiered dining room complete with dance floor. While the addition lacks the aging charm of the rest of the structure, the theme carries throughout. Messrs, Casper and Hitchins have obviously taken great care to recreate the warmth and gleeful spirit of another time. --Carol Friedman

The Oaks Lodge, County Road 19, Chippewa Lake, 216/769-2601 and 216/769-4166. Monday-Thursday 5-11 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight. Reservations accepted. Dinners, $8-15. American Express, Mastercard, Visa.

Bryn Mawr

Just where the flat lands of central Ohio begin to give way to more rolling terrain on State Route 37 in Licking County, an imposing and appealing mansion at the crest of a hill. The cheerful pale yellow structure houses an equally impressive restaurant called Bryn Mawr.

Even if Bryn Mawr’s appearance were not as inviting and the neighborhood not as charming (the comely village of Granville is less than three miles north), the drive here would be well rewarded. Owners David Klauder and Jim Hendrix have filled the mansion with furnishings and foods that make dining in the country an affordably elegant outing. 

The stately mansion served various functions prior to its present status. It was a private residence in the 1800s, and in the twentieth century a boarding school, a special school for learning disabled children and a nursing home. Upon buying the building Klauder and his former partner Charles Metzger began restoration work, brought in Jim Hendrix as manager and opened for business in 1974.

As the decor here indicates, Bryn Mawr proves that country does not necessarily mean bumpkin. On the walls of the uncluttered entrance hall are framed photos, some of them romantically misty shots of the mansion. Historic mementos are regulated to a small alcove where they are displayed in a mini-museum exhibit. The several dining rooms are appointed with white linen tablecloths, simple white china and sparkling goblets that reflect light from the chandeliers. Downstairs, additional dining space is found in the wine cellar of Dave’s Digs.

In keeping with the surroundings. the menu here is more continental than country. Diners may begin with shrimp or toast points and cheese dip or share a cheese-and-nut roll or the generous serving of light fried mushrooms, served with lemon wedge for a refreshing taste. Cinnamon rolls--sticky sweet, fresh and delicious--come with the meal, as does juice or your choice of soup. French onion is offered, as is a daily selection such as the cheddar-based cheese soup with julienne strips of carrots, celery and onion in a delicately seasoned silky broth. 

The list of entrees includes standard entries of steaks, quiche, chicken and ribs and daily seafood specials. But the two outstanding main course choices combine meats and other ingredients for highly satisfactory results. The stuffed beef tenderloin mixes ham, asparagus, Swiss cheese and a generous amount of chunk crabmeat with a chargrilled, tender and flavorful tenderloin that came rare, as requested. Chicken and Crabmeat Bryn Mawr weds pan-fried chicken with tasty chunks of crab in a mild sauce with slivered almonds and snow peas. Potatoes or rice are alos included with the meal, the average price of which is $10-15.

If it is available, the walnut cake is an excellent dessert choice: Three layers of walnut-flavored, richly textured cake with a mild, creamy icing.

Sundays are special at Bryn Mawr, when brunch is served family style to a full house. Seatings are at 11 a.m. and 12:30 p.m., by reservation only. The seating prompt, as is the ensuing service.Guests sit down to a small plate of seasonal fresh fruit; coffee quickly arrives and refills throughout the meal are plentiful. Two of the restaurant’s sweet rolls are served almost immediately. The temptation to devour them should be resisted as there’s so much more to come. 

For parties of one or two, the entree is served individually. Larger parties dine family style, passing platters of link sausage, thinly-sliced Canadian bacon, scrambled eggs, crisp potato pancake "wedges" and French toast with warm syrup served on the side. The food--surprisingly warm--tastes as though it were prepared especially for you, and the price--a bit more than $5 per person-- is surprisingly reasonable. (Price increases are pending as of writing.) All in all, it makes venturing out to this spot in the country worthwhile anytime. --Maryann Reilly

Bryn Mawr, 3758 Lancaster Road (State Route 37), Granville, 614/587-4000. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Friday 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. and 5:30-10 p.m.; Saturday, 5:30-9:30 p.m. Sunday brunch seatings 11 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. Reservations necessary for brunch, recommended for dinner. Dinners, $6-16. Mastercard, Visa. 

Whitacre’s, Oak Hill

The story of Whitacre’s, Oak Hill commences in 1836, when William H. Clement pulled roots in Sarasota Springs, New York, and moved to the Ohio countryside. Best known for his establishment of the Little Miami and Xenia Railroad, Clement could often be seen traveling about the area in his private railroad car. It was in Morrow that Clement settled, building a home for his wife and ten children that was christened Oak Hill.

Up the old Tri-C Highway from Cincinnati about 35 miles, that home can still be found tucked neatly away off the beaten path.From the main road, a narrow tree-lined drive leads to a farm. A stone’s throw or two down the winding lane, a striking stone wall comes into view. Bordering the lawns of Oak Hill, this four-foot-high masterpiece stretches several hundred feet. It was built by Clement’s employees during winter months when railroad work was scare, totally by hand, without the use of mortar.

Once within the confines of Oak Hill, the drive meanders past the estate’s wonderful old home to the restaurant, formerly the guest house. After five generations, the house and surrounding 125 acres still remain in the family. Few changes other than the guest house conversion in 1975 have been made since the days when Clement once rocked on his expansive front porch. This charming spot is now the Whitacre’s, Oak Hill restaurant. It is here Rosalyn Whitacre shares her culinary delights with modern-day visitors, who arrive by Volkswagen or Buick rather than by carriage. 

The cozy, mansard-roofed house is a pleasant combination of country and continental. Crisp white cloths and pink linen napkins complement the oriental rugs scattered here and there. Large multi-paned picture windows, comfortable bright-red canvas director’s chairs and attractive stoneware help set the mood for casual yet dining. Luncheon and dinner are served but, because of capricious hours, reservations are a must. 

Definitely French in flavor, a new menu introduced in January offers many of the house favorites that have evolved in the past six years in addition to a number of new items. Describes by Mrs. Whitacre as "rather seasonal," the menu has a way of changing "whenever... I can’t be bored with my cooking," she explains. Selecting the recipes and doing a great deal of preparation, she continually experiments. Freshness counts; the watercress served with sauce moutarde is picked each day from the spring water "down over the hill" on the farm.

A reflection of Mrs. Whitacre’s creativity and subtle humor, the menu offers Todd’s Fork catfish, named for a creek that runs by the farm and on into Morrow. The fish actually comes from Mississippi, but to locals and those who know better, the entree’s name is a source of amusement. Another favorite of regulars is the Oak Hill Bisque, a most heavenly cream-based soup, the ingredients of which remain a mystery even to the most loyal patrons.

Scallops of veal are divinely prepared, sautéed in a full-bodied by but delicate white wine and mushroom sauce. Other main courses reflect an amazing amount of variety and include an excellent black pepper steak made with strip sirloin and "diablo" sauce; frog legs sautéed in garlic butter, quail with mushrooms and silver salmon cucumber sauce. 

Perhaps the most outstanding facet of the menu at Oak Hill is the price of the meals, which range from $8.95-14.50. Each meal includes one selection each of an appetizer, salad, vegetable and dessert. Again, one will find an extraordinary range of items range of items from which to choose. In addition to the fresh watercress, salads of spinach, mixed greens, bibb lettuce or avocado are offered. And the vegetable selection lists some unusual choices along with the green beans and spinach: Turnips with meat glaze, for example, or mushrooms boiled with cream. The meal is perhaps best ended on a simple note with poached pears or custard with concord grapes.

The combination of "liking both cooking and people" is key to Mrs. Whitacre’s success. "It’s rewarding to see poeple come back time and time again. I feel very good that I have pleased somebody... and I will never think of this as work." Undoubtedly, William Clement would approve. --Valerie Beeler

Whitacre’s, Oak Hill, off Woodville Road, Morrow, 513/899-2671. By reservation only. Dinners, $8.95-14.50. No credit cards accepted.

Squire’s Little Forest Inn

Sheltered by a grove of pine trees, among the rolling hills of Carroll County, stands an unpretentious country inn that would go unnoticed were it not for the welcome sign posted near the road.

Established in 1926, Squire’s Little Forrest Inn began as an Italian restaurant operated by Antoinette Petenzi. Described as "a very colorful lady," this Italian immigrant bootlegged in the restaurant’s early days to supplement her income. During the Depression years, "Madame Pretenzi" branched out, arranging (for a fee) certain services for local gentlemen. After Pretenzi’s death on a return visit to her native land, the restaurant changed ownership once before it was purchased in 1970 by the present owner, Joe Weir. 

The Inn’s contemporary exterior is somewhat deceiving, as it conceals the original log cabin (circa 1850) around which the restaurant was built. Newer bar and dining area additions within are more in keeping with the cabin structure. Stained glass pieces from the cabin structure. Stained glass pieces from an old Methodist church decorate the main dining room, where the beamed ceiling is complemented by circulating brass ceiling fans and country artifacts thay grace the barn-siding walls. A large wood burning fireplace enhances the comfortable atmosphere.

While looking over the menu, patrons can stave off hunger with the tangy horseradish cheese spread and crackers that are promptly served upon arrival. The entrees feature hearty beef specialties from the forge and a well if seafood. Lasagna and spaghetti (made with Antoinette’s original sauce recipe) still take a prominent place on the menu, but these Italian selections now share the bill with bacon wrapped filet mignon, thick slabs of Virginia country ham broiled in maple syrup, barbecued ribs and pan-fried pickerel. 

Thursdays are special at Squire’s, thanks to Tillie Brahler. Tillie’s been a cook at the Inn for 23 years, and on Thursdays she wields familiar magic with an old iron skillet, making up batches of golden brown, pan-fried chicken. This all-you-can-eat special is served with homemade dumplings or noodles. The house is also packed on Wednesdays and Saturdays when are musicians entertain.

The regular entrees are well accompanied everyday with one of the robust soups (split pea, Russian cabbage, clam chowder and beer barley are typical of the daily offerings), salad topped with a combination of French dressing and roquefort cheese, hot bread and a choice of potato.

Country-style side orders, such as corn fritters with maple syrup and sweet Bermuda onions deep-fried and dipped in sour cream, are also offered, as is an "after-ten" menu of tasty sandwiches (Friday and Saturday only). And the desserts are a delight any day of the week. Outstanding choices are the black-bottomed pie--a rum chiffon and chocolate wonder--and the maple peanut butter parfait.--Monica Rose

Squire’s Little Forest Inn, 5252 Alliance Road N.W., Malvern, 216/863-0855, Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m.; Saturday, 5 p.m.-midnight. Reservations accepted on weekdays. Dinners, $5-18. Mastercard, Visa.

Columbian House

Had you been traveling across northwestern Ohio by stagecoach 150 years ago, you might well have stopped in the Columbian House in Waterville to warm yourself at its fireplace, dine heartily at its table and perhaps spend the night in one of its rooms.

Travelers will still stop here to warm themselves and to partake of a hearty repast. And though it has been a long time since guests have slept on the second floor rooms, visitors can still ascend the worn stairs for a peak into the old, furnished guest rooms.

John Pray, the founder of the village of Waterville, built the Columbian House between 1818 and 1828. It first served as a tavern and inn, and later as a community center for the area. The inn had been out of use for some time when it was purchased in 1940s by Ethel Arnold, who is enthusiastically set about the task of restoring it and furnishing it with antiques of the period. In 1948 the Columbian House reopened as a restaurant, run by Mrs. Arnold until her death ten years ago. It was during this period that the building was added to the National Register of Historic Places. 

The current owners, George and Jacqueline Arnold, have kept the restaurant a family operation. Jacqueline is now head chef and manager of the restaurant and George, Ethel’s son, sees to the maintenance work and runs the bar. The Arnolds and their daughter live upstairs in several of the old inn rooms. 

In its dining rooms the mood of times past is recaptured at the Columbian House. The rich, dark wood of the tables glows in the candlelight. A century-old ornate black stove radiates warmth in the corner. Throughout, the unhurried feeling of an earlier era prevails. 

When you enter the Columbian House--even before you are seated--you are enveloped by the tantalizing aromas coming from the kitchen. The fragrances of fresh baked bread and chicken roasting in the oven will fill you with a warm, welcoming feeling.

The roast chicken dinner tastes every bit as delicious as it smells, with plentiful slices of juicy white meat and a nicely seasoned dressing, lightly cooked vegetables and a choice of baked or au gratin potatoes. Included with the entree is a small loaf of that fresh bread and a bowl of sweet butter, tossed salad with a mild sweet-and-sour house dressing and tomato pudding, which the waitress brings in a large bowl so that you may help yourself. It is a thick, sweet pudding, slightly reminiscent of candied yams but with a distinct tomato flavor. Coffee or tea is also included.

Another favorite, the baked ham in orange sauce, is a big slab of aromatic ham served with all the dinner trimmings. For the indecisive, a combination dinner supplies ample samples of both chicken and ham. The Columbian House also offers several steak entrees, curried shrimp and Alaskan King Crab.

The specialty soup of the restaurant is a romaine soup, delicately seasoned and quite good. The list of desserts presents some delightful combinations with which to end the meal: Meringue strawberries and ice cream, brownie à la mode or vanilla ice cream with creme de cacao or coffee brandy.

Columbian House. 3 North River Road, Waterville, 419/878-300. Tuesday-Saturday, noon-2 p.m. and 6-9 p.m. Reservations accepted. Dinners, $5.95-11.95. American Express.

The Old Tavern

Before the construction of Interstate 90, back when Ohioans traveled to New York via State Route 84, The Old Tavern in Unionville was a favorite stopping off place for sustenance and shelter. Today the state route is more lightly traveled, and patrons of the inn are more likely city or suburban folks out for a country drive. They are drawn not just by the cooking--which is hearty and reasonably priced--but also the by the setting, which is comfortable, inviting and a delight for browsers.

Originally a twelve-by-fifteen-foot log cabin built in 1798 and called the Webster House, the building assuming its present visage in 1818, when its new owners William Whitman of Ashtabula and Calvin Cole of Painesville created the white clapboard salt box we see today, and added a ballroom (now a banquet facility) where pioneers danced reels and quadrilles. Two years later the four classical wood pillars that distinguish the front of the house were erected. During Abolition The Old Tavern became a station on the Underground Railroad; visitors may still view some of the secret closets and basement tunnels which provided concealment to runaway slaves.

Organized clutter prevails in the lobby, where the visitor encounters a hodgepodge of glass, gewgaws, antique clocks Victorian furnishings, much of it contributed by former customers who moved away. Especially eye-catching is an ornate spinet from the 1840s that has graced the lobby since 1900. An extensive collection of old glass may be seen in the antique shop off the lobby. 

The remainder of The Old Tavern is divided into several dining rooms, each with its own ambiance and color scheme, all decorated with an eclectic blend of collectibles and colonial reproductions. The tiny  green room with fireplace, velvet draperies and just four tables is the coziest, though there are some lovely Victorian light fixtures and oak furniture throughout. On a winter’s day, a crackling fire in the blue room extends a warm greeting to chilled travelers.

Also warming is the country fare, exemplified by baseball-sized corn fritters doused in maple syrup that are the kitchen’s best effort. After these come mountains of mashed au gratin potatoes, great mounds of sage-scented stuffings and rich gravies. This is definitely not the best place for low-carbohydrate dieters.

Good main course choices include the baked Swiss steak with tasty pan gravy, and the hot, crisp and juicy fried scallops that are a real value (at least 15 for only $7.35). Two of the fowl dishes--a dry stuffed chicken breast and rather bland roast duckling--have not been as pleasing. Other entrees are baked ham, roast round of beef, stuffed pork chop, steaks, lobster tail and lamb chops, with all but the last three in the $7 range.

Dinners include rolls, relishes, a salad, potatoes and the fritters. All but the ravenous should probably skip the appetizers (juice, herrings, fried onions and cauliflower) and save some room for the rhubarb pie. The rhubarb is grown "out back" and put up for pie filling. 

The Old Tavern offers full bar service and a wine list of primarily local and New York (Taylor) bottles, most at about $7.50. Service is affable and efficient with little pause between courses, a plus if there is a restless youngster in your party. --Iris Bailin

The Old Tavern, Route 84 at County Line Road, Unionville 216/428-2091. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m.; Sunday, noon-7 p.m. Reservations accepted. $6.75-13.50.

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