Sugar n’ Spice, Cincinnati

Walk along Sycamore Street in Cincinnati’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood, and a squat, bullet of a diner car pops into view. Its gleaming chrome accented with bubble gum pink and cotton candy blue stands as a nod to diner culture, and its neon sign reflects a bygone era. Inside, the enchantment continues with checkerboard tile and vinyl booths in electric hues. 

Sugar n’ Spice has been serving classic American comfort food in Cincinnati since 1941. This outpost in the city’s Over-the-Rhine neighborhood is the second of three locations owned by father-and-son duo Neal and Adam Mayerson, who purchased the original Cincinnati diner in 2019 and expanded into Over-the-Rhine a year later by renovating an abandoned diner car. 

The menu has evolved to meet modern tastes, but a handful of items remain unchanged, the most notable of which are the Famous Wispy Thin Pancakes. True to their name, the flapjacks are physics-defyingly thin and simultaneously chewy, fluffy and lightly crisped.

“People are still stumped by that,” says Mike Strum, director of operations at Sugar n’ Spice. 

The Meatlovers Platter is another classic: two eggs your way, served alongside a smorgasbord of breakfast meats — including Glier’s Goetta, of course — plus potatoes and toast. For a twist on two breakfast staples, look to the Challah French Toast or the Breakfast Sandwich, a 4-ounce sausage patty, folded egg and American cheese served on an English muffin. 

The lunch menu is equally robust and is, like breakfast, served all day. The burgers are messy, juicy perfection, while the Nashville Hot Chicken is best eaten with elbows on the table. When the check arrives, so will a miniature rubber duck, yet another Sugar n’ Spice tradition. 

“It’s nostalgic,” Strum says of the diner. “You get those comfort tastes we all remember. And it’s a mixing pot. Anyone and everyone is welcome.” 1203 Sycamore St., Cincinnati 45202, 513/762-0390, eatsugarnspice.com

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