September 2007 Issue

Rosendales

Chef Richard Rosendale says of his namesake restaurant, "Some people may look at us as fine dining; I look at us as great dining." The distinction may be in the trio of dining experiences that Rosendales offers its patrons: You may sit at the poured-concrete bar and nibble popcorn flavored with white truffle oil, lobster corn dogs or lamb burgers from the bar menu; sample from the diverse a la carte menu on the spacious first floor; or retreat to the more formal upstairs room and choose from the six-course tasting menu or the chef’s eight-course blind tasting menu.

Rosendale, 31, has more than 40 medals won in national and international culinary competitions, and has been appointed the team captain of the 2008 U.S. Culinary Olympic team. To pay appropriate compliments to the chef and his team, my friend and I spent well over three hours sampling from the a la carte menu. To start, we loved the onion "cappuccino" (a creative twist on onion soup) topped with crispy shallot rings, frothed skim milk and chives; the spinach, arugula, and artichoke salad with a lemon, pine nut and honey vinaigrette; and a Maryland crab cake crowned with a sprinkling of crispy apple salad, sweet basil and lime juice. For entrees, I chose the black grouper prepared in lobster broth and teamed with saffron pasta, corn, and bits of chorizo sausage, while my friend picked the 48-hour braised beef short ribs served with Parmesan potatoes and enlivened with red wine foam.

We enjoyed two desserts: the molten chocolate cake served with a dollop of vanilla bean ice cream, and the lemon curd with crushed raspberries and ginger ice cream, topped with meringue.

Whatever his guests choose, Rosendale wants the dining experience to be "comfortable and fun" — a local and regional place where people can come frequently, but also a dining destination worthy of a several-hour drive. — Joan DeMartin
columbus

Rosendales 793 North High St., Columbus, 614/298-1601. www.rosendales.com. Dinner: Mon.–Thur. 6–9 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5–10 p.m. Reservations suggested. Bar menu: $3–$14. A la carte menu: soups and salads $7–$9; appetizers $11–$15; entrees $30–$38. CR First floor is wheelchair accessible.